Kyoto North - Nijojo Castle

Built on the original grounds of the 8th century Imperial Palace, the Kyoto residence of the Tokugawa shoguns was erected with funds requisitioned from the feudal lords of the west. It’s also of historical interest as the site where, in 1867, the last of the shoguns, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, renounced his rule and passed authority into the hands of the young Emperor Meiji before retiring into private life as a citizen of the new Japan.

The castle is a good destination for visitors because you’re free to explore it on your own, unlike the present Imperial Palace northwest of the castle. The historical, architectural and artistic treasures on display here are marvelous, and renting one of the audio guides is highly recommended to gain a fuller appreciation of what you’re seeing.

Completed in 1626 after 25 years of construction, the castle’s fortifications consist of two ring defenses, each including a moat and broad stone wall. Between the two rings lies the Ninomaru Palace, which is probably the best destination for the visitor with limited time.

Ninomaru Palace includes five buildings in total, and is a superb example of power displayed through architecture. The buildings lie in a staggered line, and house some of the finest art of the Momoyama period in the form of wall and screen paintings done on gold leaf by masters of the Kano school. Massive constructions of ornately carved wood, mostly cypress, create an atmosphere of somewhat menacing grandeur. In the outer buildings, decoration is ostentatious in the extreme, particularly for Japan. Fantastic predatory animals and peacocks prowl the walls and the elaborate ceilings, glaring down on the petitioners awaiting their audience with the shogun. By contrast the fourth room, restricted to closer associates, is relatively austere. The effect is the aesthetic equivalent of speaking down to inferiors while acknowledging the refinement of the inner circle.

Despite the bravado of the furnishings, however, the palace’s occupants took pains to guard against possible intruders. Probably the most famous of these measures are the palace’s “Nightingale Floors,’ built so that the wood creaked loudly whenever someone walked across them. Bodyguards were stationed in alcoves, some hidden and others in full view. Only female attendants were granted access to the private quarters of the shogun himself.

Within the inner fortifications, you’ll find the ruins of the original Central Keep, and the Honmaru Palace. The latter is a late Edo structure built in 1847 on the Imperial Palace grounds that was relocated here in the 1890’s. It’s lovely, but not spectacularly so, and at any rate it’s closed to visitors for all but a brief period in the autumn. If you’ve seen the Ninomaru Palace, you shouldn’t feel bad if you give the inner fortifications a miss.

For travelers who are interested in gardens, there are several on hand. First, the gardens associated with the Ninomaru Palace itself are beautiful, a creation of the famous tea master and landscape designer Kobori Enshu, who served as tea instructor to Iemitsu, third of the Tokugawas. In the north part of the complex, Seiryu-en is the most recent addition, completed in 1965 to serve as a reception area for important visitors to Kyoto and as a venue for various cultural events throughout the year. It’s best known for the more than 1,000 stones that are carefully arranged about the grounds. Finally, just to the south of the castle (and outside its walls), visitors will find the tiny Shinsen-en garden. Taken on its own merits, it’s not especially impressive, but this is the last remnant of the ancient Imperial Palace, and the garden is worthy of your attention for that if for no other reason.

More Info.(Kyoto North):
Arashiyama
Ryoanji Temple
Uzumasa Movie Land
Nijojo Castle
Kyoto Tower

Matt Mangham

541 NIjojo-cho, Horikawa Nishiiri, Nijo-dori, Chukyoku, Kyoto

Kyoto station===(City bus, No.9, 50, or 101, 5min.)===NIjojo Mae===(On foot, 1min.)===Nijo Castle

Open Hours:
8:45 - 4:00 (The gate is closed at 5:00)
Holidays:
December 26 - January 4 Tuesday in December, January, July and August (Open If Tuesday above is a national holiday, but closed next day.)

Normal Daytime Admission Fee
Adult: 600 yen
Junior high school /High school student: 350 yen
Elementary school student: 200 yen

Cherry Blossom Season Evening Admission Fee
Adult: 400 yen
Elementary school/ Junior high school/High school student: 200 yen
*Free if you are wearing kimono
(You cannot visit Ninomaru, Honmaru, Ninomaru garden, Honmaru garden.)

Kyoto Tourism Council "Kyoto Travel Guide": http://www.kyoto.travel/

Cherry Blossom season (End of March to the mid of April)
Mon. - Thu. 18:00 to 21:00 (gate is closed at 21:30)
Fri. - Sun. 18:00 to 21:30 (gate is closed at 22:00)

Visitors who are in the castle between 8:45 -16:00 cannot stay inside for the illuminations.